Category Archives: Caribbean

Gustavia

American University of the Caribbean, Caribbean, Expats, Expats and TCKs, International Travel, Spouses Organization, St. Barth, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

St. Barth’s is a magical island. Full of pirate history, tales of buried treasure, and beautiful beaches, this tiny Caribbean island is perfectly enchanting. Since it’s been a couple of years since our last adventure to Anguilla, my friend Emily and I decided to take a last-minute trip to St. Barth! Believe it or not, we managed to do a full day trip for under $100 each. We began our St. Barth explorations in Gustavia, the capital and port town.

We had reserved an ATV to take around the island, but before we picked it up, we decided to explore Gustavia. There’s actually a lot to see in a small space. There are two or three forts (we only made it to two of them, but I’m pretty sure I spotted another), plus a beautiful little beach called Shell Beach. I’ll tell you about those a little later, because Gustavia deserves its own post.

St. Barth was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1943. Although he often named islands after the saints whose feast days fell on the day of discovery, Columbus named this island after his brother. My guess is that he discovered it the same day he saw St. Martin, and had to pick another esteemed namesake.

Although it was “discovered” (I use that term loosely since there were already people living on it) in the 15th Century, it wasn’t until 1648 that colonists on St. Kitts immigrated to St. Barth. In the 18th Century, a successful colony was finally built on the island by the French. Not long after, the French traded it to the Swedish. The port city was named after King Gustav, and the Swedish flag still flies in places to commemorate the hundred years of Swedish rule. In the 19th Century, the island was returned to the French.

Throughout Gustavia, you can see both French and Swedish colonial imprints in the architecture and in the streets. Lovely old building have been preserved for hundreds of years, and old canons still sand like ancient sentries on the hills above the city. Today, the forts are used for hiking and whale-watching rather than for protection.

Gustavia has changed a lot over the years, despite the old houses and roads. Now, there are malls and fine restaurants lining the wharf and the back streets. Gustavia is a destination for the rich and famous! Being neither of these, we opted to wander and window shop, keeping our wallets in our pockets. Aside from an acai bowl (something you can’t get in Saint Martin, where we live) and a couple of postcards, window shopping was the order of the day.

We enjoyed wandering around and exploring. There were so many interesting things to see! I liked the gigantic coloring page outside a curio shop. Everybody who passed by stopped for a moment to color a little bit.

It was also fun to play tourist for a little while! Emily and I live in the neighboring island of Saint Martin, where we see tourists all over the place and are often mistaken for travelers. In St. Barth, we really were tourists! There’s no shame in a great, big Canon camera and a big, floral print backpack when you’re a tourist. Who are we kidding, though? I walk around like that at home, too.

Stay tuned for more St. Barth adventures. Don’t forget to subscribe or follow me on Facebook! I have a lot more Caribbean adventures that intend to pack in over my last few weeks living in Saint Martin. Until next time!

 

 

Petite Plage: An SXM Beach You Never Heard Of

Caribbean, International Travel, Nature, Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten, Uncategorized, , , , , , ,

School’s out, and I’ve been doing a lot of exploring lately! Most of my adventures are documented on my Canon, which I haven’t been able to upload since my laptop cord died. Fortunately, I was able to replace it this week– for a whopping $45. In the States, it’s only $26. Go figure it couldn’t survive just one more month. Still, I am really happy to have my computer back! All that to say that I’ll be uploading great photos from St. Barths, Anguilla, and St. Martin soon. Today, though, I have something special: Petite Plage.


Petite Plage is one of the lesser known beaches on Saint Martin. It’s pretty tiny, and it’s hidden away. Plus, it’s right next door to Grand Case Beach, one of the best beaches on the island. Still, this quiet little beach is worth visiting.


To get to Petite Plage, walk north on the main road in Grand Case. Keep walking until you hit a gate to a private driveway, and then go through the small gate to the left. You’ll see the type of sign that marks the entrance to every beach on the French side.


When you get to the other end of the walkway, you’ll find a lovely little strip of sand with a killer view of Creole Rock.


You know, I had no idea that Petite Plage existed until Sunday. I’ve scoured the maps, planned my excursions, and even kept a list of all the beaches on Saint Martin that I hadn’t yet visited. Yet this one managed to slip past me. After my friend mentioned it last weekend, I checked the map again.  Yup, there it was– right next to Grand Case Beach. I’m so glad I found out about it in time! I’m trying to visit every beach on Saint Martin. What a bummer it would have missed this one.


Ben and I aren’t big “chill on the beach” people. If we were, we would have loved Petite Plage. If the beach bum life is your thing, rent a chair and umbrella for 20 Euro or get some food at Sunset (which I’ve heard is really fantastic).


Rather than stay at the Beach, Ben and I waded over to the rocky area to the left and went exploring. Aside from some cows and a ninja iguana, we found an awesome view  of Creole Rock and the whole bay.


All in all, this wasn’t our favorite beach. It’s definitely somewhere to visit at least once, though. If you need a place to get away from it all and relax, Petite Plage is your place!

Nettle Bay Beach, Lagoon Side

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I’m trying to visit all 37 Saint Martin beaches, and I’m starting to close in on my goal. At last count, I had been to 32 of them. I decided that this was the weekend to tackle the easiest remaining beach. I’ve been told a couple of different names for this beach, and since Anse Aux Acajoux is really hard for my apparently French averse tongue to pronounce, we’re going to stick with Nettle Bay Lagoon Side.

Now, there are a few ways to get to this little piece of Paradise. You can enter here:

Or here:

Or here:

None of these places had good parking, so we ended up parking at Nettle Bay Ocean Side, in the parking lot for Le Sand and Dreams Beach Bar.

You can park to the right, and then take the path to the left. That’s what we did. This is the path to take if you’re up for an adventure. Saint Martin is full of grown-over paths than nobody really uses anymore, so we assumed this was the way you had to go to get to the beach. About halfway in, I was wondering if this was really a secret beach, or if all the other people are just too smart to go bushwhacking through an overgrown footpath with hundreds of spiders in a place where killers have been known to leave their victims. As it turns out, the beach is neither secret nor only accessible through Spider Forest. So unless you want to catalog all the arachnid species on Saint Martin, I’d advise using a more civilized route.

In the end, the walk through the bushes was more than worth it. So much for a hidden beach! The entire strip was beautifully cared for and lined with the most charming of beach houses! Here, the palms wave gently in the breeze and boats bob up and down in the gently rippling water.

I’m curious why this side of the lagoon is so nice, while the other side (where we live) has muddy shores and tons of jellyfish. It would be cool to have a dinghy to explore the whole lagoon and see what it looks like as a whole.

We found several shops along the edge of the beach. There was everything from jet ski rentals to dive excursions! Who knew all this was hiding back here? Not us! There were also a few little beach bars, which were tempting. A glass of fruit juice would have been nice after walking so far on this hot day.

I’m not sure how long the Nettle Bay Beach Lagoon Side is (Ben guessed 3/4 of a mile), but I really wanted to walk all the way to the end. Ben and R were kind enough to humor me. There was a lot to see, so even though we were hot, we weren’t bored. One house has an antique canon in the backyard!

We eventually came to the end, went through a gate, and found ourselves on a residential street in Sandy Ground. It was another longish walk back, but we took a break in the middle at Parisienne, a bakery and pastry shop I’ve driven past often but never stopped in.

R got a sugar brioche and Ben and I split a chocolate twist. It was a good refreshment for a mid-afternoon walk. The woman working at the bakery was really nice, too.

Before long, we ended up back at Nettle Bay Ocean Side. That’s another beach for another post! If you want to learn how to find other lesser known Saint Martin beaches, check out these posts:

Lovers Bay Beach

Guana Bay

Le Galion Beach

Scuba Diving Creole Rock

Caribbean, Expats, Expats and TCKs, International Travel, Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten, Uncategorized, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The ocean is the last unexplored frontier. I mean, we know more about the surface of the moon than we do about the bottom of the ocean! Perhaps that’s why Scuba diving is such a thrilling adventure. Last week, Ben had the opportunity to Scuba dive around Creole Rock.

Ben’s cousin Craig, his wife, Bonnie, and their son, Wally, came to spend a week with us in Saint Martin. While they were here, they spoiled us. And I mean absolutely spoiled us! One of the excursions that Ben has been dying to do is Scuba diving. That hasn’t been in the med school student budget, so we’ve been doing a lot of snorkeling instead. Well, Craig and Bonnie decided that Scuba diving needed to be on the agenda, so Ben finally had the chance to go! He said it’s way more incredible than snorkeling, and it was worth taking a break from studying the weekend before his comprehensive exam.


Jet Ski Flyboard Experience in St Martin

The Experience

We went with Bubble Shop in Grand Case. Max was our guide, and he was awesome! This post isn’t sponsored by Bubble Shop; I’m writing because Bubble Shop is a great dive option and it’s worth sharing. Ben isn’t a certified diver, so he and Craig did the Discovery Dive trip to Creole Rock. Wally, Bonnie, and I did the snorkeling excursion. Since there were five of us, we got the whole trip to ourselves. It felt like a personal chartered excursion!

We started out with a tutorial on how to safely dive and snorkel. Before long, we were all zipped up in wet suits and on a boat from Grand Case to Creole Rock! Max said that it’s called Creole Rock because it looks like the outline of a Creole man sleeping in the water. As we got closer, I could make out the outline of a nose and chin, plus the belly rising out of the water.


Marine Tour Around St Martin

What We Saw 

The day was a little bit cloudy, which isn’t ideal for snorkeling, but the water was so clear that it didn’t matter. It’s definitely worth it to get out from the beaches, far away from where everyone is kicking up a bunch of sand or the waves are bringing in a bunch of crud from the Sargasso Sea.

The clarity of the water was awesome out by Creole Rock! The photos don’t do it justice. I usually fix the photos on a web program, but my laptop cord turned in its two week notice and took a vacation this week, so it will be a few weeks before I can fix these on my computer. Still, you get the idea! It was pretty remarkable down there.

At least the photos aren’t too shaky! You can tell which Go Pro photos I take and which ones Ben takes. Ben has the magical ability to take clear, steady videos under the water. When I take them, they look like they’ve been through a tsunami or a category three hurricane. Luckily, Ben had the Go Pro during this excursion. 

Here’s a photo of a gigantic hermit crab in a conch shell! Someone from another snorkel excursion told us about it, and Wally was the first one in our group to spot the shell. For size reference, conch shells are generally nine or ten inches long. Look at those pinchers! Anyone feel like losing a finger?

You can see a blue tang and a queen angelfish in the photo above. I’ve seen a lot of blue tang here, but this is one of the few queen angelfish I’ve seen.

This is a trumpet fish. They’re small, thin, silvery fish, and they are hard to see when they’re near the surface. Sometimes, I’m surprised when I slide into apparently empty water and see a few of these sneaky little guys gliding by. At Creole Rock, they’re not very skittish. Since it’s a nature preserve, they let you get pretty close without fear.


Snorkel Tour from St Martin

Why I Liked It

The water around Creole Rock is deep enough to be interesting but shallow enough to feel safe. I like free diving a little bit, and this was a good depth for getting to the bottom and not feeling like I was running out of air.

I also liked the area because it was good for all levels. Even though I’ve been in the water at least once a week since I got to the Caribbean, Creole Rock was an interesting place to see some new things and nicer coral. People who don’t snorkel often enjoy it, too, because it’s protected and shallow- perfect for getting used to open water or for seeing lots of things without having to free dive (and for readjusting an uncomfortable snorkel mask when it’s too loose).

What makes the boat ride out to Creole Rock most worth it is that it’s located in protected waters.  It’s also too far out for people to break the rules and go snag some lobsters illegally. The fish aren’t afraid that you’re going to whip out a spear gun, and the coral isn’t bleached from too much touching. This is a perfectly gorgeous place to go. We can snorkel Baie Rouge or Mullet anytime (which we do love to do), but this is special.


2-Tank Scuba Dive in St Martin

We had a great time snorkeling and diving Creole Rock! I’m so glad we had the opportunity to do it before we left. Thanks, Craig and Bonnie!

 

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How to Find the Guana Bay Hike

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The Guana Bay hike is a popular hike on the Caribbean island of Saint Martin, but it can be pretty hard to find if you’ve never done it before. To avoid driving endlessly around or scrambling up a frightening hillside of loose rocks, follow these directions and enjoy one of the most beautiful hikes of your life! Here’s how to find the Guana Bay hike in Sint Maarten.

To Find the Guana Bay Hike: 

To get the hike, drive north (counter-clockwise) from Philipsburg. If you’re on Pondfill Road, drive toward the east coast of the island and go north (left) at the freed slave roundabout. Keep driving until you see the sign that says “Guana Bay” on your right. It’s kind of small, so keep your eye out. You’ll turn right at the next right after you spot the sign. The road will take you up a hill, then down and to the coast. You’ll see the beach on your left and the parking lot on your right.

Now, it’s probably good to know that the name “Guana Bay Hike” is a misnomer. The beach on your left is Guana Bay, and the hike does NOT start here. We thought it did the first time we went, because getting lost is apparently just part of hiking for us. It was still fun, but it’s not the trail.

If you’re here, you’re in the wrong place

When you see the beach and the parking lot (aka dirt patch), keep going. You’ll get to the end of the road at a while abandoned house. The trail starts here, going directly toward the coast.


Full-Day Jet Ski Tour in St Martin

The Trail Head: 

Like I said, the trail begins at the end of the road. It goes directly down toward the water, dipping down and passing this weird old garden thing before heading up. This is the path, and you can keep going until the end.

 

This is actually the very first Saint Martin activity that Ben and I did when we first moved here, over a year and a half ago! Our friends Austin and Stephanie took us here to give us a taste of the island life. Here’s a picture of Ben and I way back before we got our Caribbean tans. It’s hard to believe that this island adventure is almost over.

The Path

The Guana Bay path isn’t the kind of thing you want to do in flip-flops or even Chocos, really, although I have done it in Chacos. I also wouldn’t recommend taking little kids past the first couple bays, unless they’re seasoned hikers. I have taken kids to the rocky area and the first bay you reach. That part isn’t too bad.

After the first part, though, you get some narrow trails, steep drops, and straight-up hillsides. The end result, however, is worth it. It takes about an hour to get to the end.

By the way, “X” does not mark the spot when it comes to the Guana Bay Hike in Sint Maarten. Stay away from the old, disintegrated paths marked with a red “X.”

Very steep!


Fly Zone Extreme Adventure at Loterie Farm

Along the Way

Don’t forget to enjoy the treasures you find along the trail! One of my favorite stops is at the boulders. This is fairly early on in the hike. You’ll see all the big, black rocks. Climb down there and explore the tide pools and rocks. This is a great pace for viewing the cays and islands off the coast. The biggest one is St. Barth’s, and the closet cay is Guana Cay.

Another cool place is Geneve Bay, where you can often find pelicans swooping to the waves in search of fish. This is also a great place to hunt for conch shells.

There are also a whole bunch of goats on the path! When I take my dog, Kito, on this hike, she loves to chase them. There’s nothing I can do about it, so I just keep going and she eventually comes back. The first time she went racing after the goats, she was covered in cactus spikes from head to toe when she came limping back. Now she knows about the cactus and stays away.


St-Martin and St Maarten: Sightseeing Tour of the French and Dutch Sides of the Island

The End

The end of the Guana Bay Hike is the very best part! Here, you’ll find a deep natural pool that is protected from the waves. You can swim here, but beware of the urchins! My friend Jay was stung by one pretty badly. Just stay away from the walls and you’ll be fine. This is also a great place for sunbathing.

Beyond the Tide Pool

The Guana Bay Hike is already a pretty long hike if you go all the way to the pools, but if you’re up for more, the path continues. I’ve never been myself, but I believe the trail comes out at Point Blanche.

If you want to find more hikes in Saint Martin, check out my SXM Activities Page or read these posts on the Lovers Beach Hike, the Wilderness Hike, and the Pic Paradis Hike. Subscribe or like the 3rd Culture Wife Facebook Page for more posts on Saint Martin hikes!

Photo creds: Alyssa F. and Austin W

 

A Walk Through Wilderness (And the Dump)

Caribbean, Expats, Expats and TCKs, International Travel, Nature, Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

What ended with flames, dogs, and old tires began with an innocent little walk in the hills. Ever since Ben and I got married, our hikes always seem to end up with us accidentally walking on private property, and then trying desperately to get out unseen as fast as possible.  Naturally, our latest hike ended up the same way, although it started out very nice.

Ben and I are trying to save money, so we decided to skip the fancy stuff for my birthday this year and go hiking in a new place. To give you some context, “hiking” for us usually ends up being bushwhacking through some marginally dangerous area, and one of usually gets stung by a wasp or poisoned by a manchineel tree or something along those lines. Don’t ask us why we keep doing it. Maybe it’s an addiction.

Trails are great (and slightly less painful), but there’s something about going where no man has gone before (at least in the last year or so). We always end up finding the most exhilarating views and loneliest places, which makes it all more than worth it.

On this particular hike, we began at the Grandes Cayes area in French Saint Martin. There is a nice though somewhat rugged trail that goes around the hill to a hidden beach called Petit Cayes, but we decided to go straight up. We tried once before, but we got rained out and had to go home. This time, it was a perfect day! This area of the island is so nice. When the grass is new, it ripples in the wind like an ocean of green. Simply mesmerizing.

By February, though, the grass is less flexible. We discovered why they’re called “blades” of grass. By the time we were done, we were criss-crossed with cuts and bleeding slightly. I felt like I had been in a sword flight with a bazillion Lego-sized Musketeers.

Once we got to the top of the hill, we could see absolutely everything! It was such a clear day that we could see Anguilla and its keys, Tintamarre, Pinel Island, and St. Barth’s in detail. We looked down and saw a helicopter and a someone parasailing below us.

Amazingly, we could also see the ocean floor through the water. It was so clear that we could pick out the reef, the drop-off, the sandy areas, and the sea grass. At this point, I was really wishing we had brought our snorkel stuff. If you’re looking for a good place to snorkel or dive on Saint Martin, this is (in my opinion) the best spot of all. Also, check out Tintamarre— can you believe people used to live there? Today, it’s uninhabited and pretty expensive to get to, even though it’s close. Heck, you can go to St. Barth’s for cheaper and actually get to do stuff. Still, the allure of Tinatamarre is calling me. I’m jealous of the people on those sail boats.

After I published this, someone sent me this link for a cheaper fare to Tintamarre. I’m adding it here, just in case you want to go!

We followed what looked like a trail for a while, but eventually it turned into a meandering path that disappeared altogether. We found a 200-yer-old property line, and walked on top of it for a while. Back in the day, landowners had their slaves haul rocks to build short walls all along their property. I can’t imagine having to carry those big rocks up the hills! It is brutal enough just to climb up there. Eventually, the rock wall disappeared into a thicket of thorn bushes, so it was back to wading through the six-foot-tall grass and looking for random cow paths.

Once we got to the summit, we felt like we were on top of the world! We did a bit of bouldering for the fun of it.

At this point, we were just about directly above Petit Cayes Beach, and we know that there’s a path somewhere in the hills that goes directly to the beach. I’ve seen it from the other side. So we started looking.

That’s where we went wrong. 

At this point, we began to wade aimlessly through the grass, looking for some sign of the trail. There was no sign of it anywhere. Eventually, we decided to throw in the towel and go back down. Unfortunately, we had lost the path!

We needed a vantage point, so we ended up walking up this super steep path to a high mountain. We discovered more great views, and the less-than-great news that our original “path” was ridiculously far away by now. Like three peaks over.

Also, Ben almost ate this spider:

You know what they say: the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. Obviously, this was coined by a mathematician and not an explorer. We decided to go for it, and went straight down the slopes. It was about a 30 degree angle and we couldn’t see where we were walking, but every time we tripped over a rock or fell into a hole, the long grass caught us softly.

To give you an idea of what we walked down, here’s a picture of the hill. We started from where I took the picture and ended up on the left edge of the dump. That’s wasn’t the goal, though, obviously. From the top, it looked like we could get close to the dump and walk around the edge. Oh, sure. That worked out great.

By this time, I was wishing I could pull out a parachute and just jump down. Ben went hunting for a trail, and I walked/ tripped/ fell down the hill and met up with him at the bottom.

Once we got down there, we discovered, much to my dismay, that the only way out was through the dump. I could walk up and around or attempt to shred my legs further in a thicket of thorn bushes, but if I wanted to be done with our everlasting wandering in the endless grass, the dump was it.

Of course, I wasn’t thrilled by this idea. It wasn’t as bad as the time we got lost on the Camel’s Head in Phoenix, jumped down into what we thought was a piece of undeveloped desert, and found ourselves in a minimally-landscaped, highly-secure, multi-million dollar estate’s backyard with a dog, but it was still pretty bad. Some employees at the dump saw us considering our options, and they started whistling and motioning at us. At the time, I was sure they were going to call the Gendarmes on us. Looking back, they were probably warning us of the unpleasant landscape we were headed for. In either case, we were kind of stuck.

So down we went, into the dump, walking briskly around the edge and hoping not to run into anybody who would yell at us. By the way, I by am no means advocating this. Hopefully you can use our mishap as a way to avoid your own.  We were definitely not enjoying it, especially when we took a wrong turn and ended up right in the middle. Yuck! Now, I’m not hating on the dump, because it looked well run, but it is a dump, after all. It didn’t smell too nice. We were seriously regretting our decision not to go up and around at this point.

Now, if you know me at all, you’ll know that I am a RULE FOLLOWER. No, I’m not going to have another piece of pizza. One per person– didn’t you hear the announcement? Of course I’m not going to return your text during class. The teacher said no phones. No! I can’t share my password with you. The terms and conditions said I can’t. And yes, I read them before clicking the box.

Needless to say, I was really freaking out at this point.

We suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a swarm of flies, and took off running. Flashes of the dump passed me as I ran: a stack of tires, some shreds of clothing, little tongues of flame licking at paper and cardboard. There was a pack of dogs rooting around at the edge, and they looked at us like we were crazy as we flew past. We came to the edge, where there was a steep but short drop and enough room to slide through the fence. Down and through we went, fast as we could go, and came out panting on the other side. Wow, I don’t want to do that again!

We walked, exhausted, to the water’s edge, balancing carefully on the piles of bleached coral that had washed up on the shore. Our hundreds of tiny cuts stung as we washed them in the ocean water. We sat down, exhausted and happy that we made it. “I guess we’ll laugh about this later,” Ben said.

What’s a hike without a little adventure? 

Tell me in the comments: what is your most memorable hiking experience?